Ceramides and the Skin Barrier

Neck & Décolleté 

Summer Skincare In the summer months, many of us spend far more outside than the rest of the year, which increases the risk of skin damage from the sun and pollution. For this reason, just like we change our clothing to match the season, so should we change our skincare too. Prepare the Skin With increased exposure to outside pollutants and increased perspiration, it is important to properly cleanse the skin. For this reason, we recommend double-cleansing the skin in the evening, which helps remove sweat and stale products, and allows your products to absorb deeper into the skin. Treating the Skin One of the biggest changes to the skin in the summer months is increased sweating, which can cause the skin to become dehydrated. This is exacerbated by the warmer weather, which increases evaporation from the skin. For this reason we recommend using hydrating products containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and bisabolol. However, warmer weather also increases oil production, for which reason many prefer a lighter moisturiser in the summer months. We recommend Sentéales Intense Source Cream , which intensively hydrates parched skins. It contains: 🔹 Hyaluronic acid to intensely hydrate, plump, and smooth the skin. 🔹Prickly pear - an anti-ageing and moisturising extract that is packed with antioxidants. 🔹Cherry blossom to moisturise and defend against environmental aggressors. To increase skin hydration, apply the moisturiser to damp skin , which locks in hydration and helps your moisturiser absorb more easily. Protecting the Skin As we spend more time outside, it increases our exposure to UV rays, which not only cause irritation, but also speed skin aging and cause hyperpigmentation. For this reason it is important to regularly apply a sun cream that protects against UVA and has an SPF of 30 or above. When applying sunscreen, make sure you apply it not only to the face, but also the eye area, ears, and scalp. These sensitive areas are particularly susceptible to sun damage. For more on sunscreen, what to look for, and how to use it - click here!

The Importance of Sun-Screen I am often asked what’s the one ‘anti-ageing’ product I would most recommend, and the answer is always the same - sunscreen! 80-90% of the visible signs of ageing are down to sun exposure, which is why sunscreen is the most important age-defying product you can buy. There's little point buying corrective products if you aren't protecting yourself from the major cause of skin damage. However, not all sunscreens are the same, and it is important to purchase one that protects against both UVA and UVB: 🔹 UVB are short rays that cause sunburn and damage to the outer layers of the skin. These cause the majority of skin cancers. 🔹 UVA are longer rays that penetrate deep into the dermis. They break down collagen and elastin, and cause most of the damage associated with premature skin aging (wrinkles and dark spots), being especially visible on those who spend a lot of time outdoors. UVA is also a key cause of melanoma. When looking at a sunscreen, the SPF relates to the product's ability to protect against UVB, however, it doesn't tell you if it protects against UVA. UVA protection is typically denoted by the letters UVA in a circle, or the words UVA followed by a number of stars (you need to be looking for 4 stars or above), or the words ‘broad-spectrum sunscreen’. Common Sunscreen Myths Many people say they don’t need sunscreen as they don’t sunbathe. However, around 80% of our sun exposure comes from day-to-day exposure to ambient sunlight. This includes driving in the car, sitting in a conservatory or by a window, sitting out having a coffee, walking the dog, putting the washing out, doing the gardening, walking to the shops, etc. In short, anytime it’s daylight, there’s UV rays. In many ways it is better to think of sunscreen as ‘daylight protection ’. For this reason we should wear sunscreen all year round, not just in the summer. Whilst the winter sun may not feel as warm, its invisible UV rays still continue to damage our skin. Even on a cloudy day we are at risk of sun damage, as clouds only filter about 20% of the sun’s rays. Some people believe they don't need sunscreen as there skin is darker. However, whatever colour your skin, you still need a broad-spectrum sunscreen. On average, a black skin tone only has a natural SPF of 13, whilst fair skins have a natural SPF of 3, both of which are a far less than the recommended SPF of 30 (without even taking into account the need for UVA protection). How to Use Sunscreen 🔹Wear a minimum SPF 30 broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning, which will block about 97% of harmful UV rays. 🔹 Don’t scrimp! Use about 5ml (1 tsp) for the face and neck. 🔹 Sunscreen should always be the last product you apply before your make-up (if you wear it). 🔹Put on sunscreen at least 20 minutes before heading outside. Although zinc oxide and titanium dioxide work immediately, the absorbing sunscreen ingredients do not. 🔹In direct sun, reapply sunscreen at least every two hours and more frequently if you are sweating. If applying over make-up, you can dab it on using a make-up sponge. 🔹 Reapply sunscreen after coming out of the water - there is no such thing as waterproof sunscreen, only water resistant. 🔹 Avoid the sun between 11 am and 3 pm, when the sun is at its strongest.

The Importance of Cleansing Cleansing is an essential step of any skincare routine, as the skin accumulates a layer of daily grime and bacteria comprised of: Pollutants (exhaust fumes etc) that cause free-radicals to form. These damage our collagen and elastin, accelerating premature ageing. Materials expelled from the skin (sweat, oils, dead skin cells etc.) Topical creams, serums, SPF, make-up etc, which left on too long begin to go rancid. This layer needs removing twice a day, or it can cause inflammation, sensitivity, blocked pores, spots, dullness, and premature ageing. It also creates a barrier, stopping serums and creams penetrating into the skin, which reduces their results. Can I Use Wipes? We do not recommend cleansing wipes as they only remove surface grime, leaving behind the ingrained dirt that causes dull and congested skins. Wipes are also packed with a cocktail of chemicals, which get left behind on the skin, causing dehydration, redness, and sensitivity with long-term use. The Secret to Proper Cleansing Instead of wipes, we recommend the following routine, being sure to only use cool (not hot) water : Morning As you are only removing night products and waste materials from the skin, you only need a simple cleanse and tone. Leave the skin slightly damp after cleansing to help your serums and creams penetrate more easily. Evening As you have a whole day of grime to remove, we recommend double-cleansing (unless you have seriously sensitive skin or rosacea). This simply means cleansing the skin twice before toning. The first cleanse removes surface grime, such as SPF, make-up, moisturiser etc. The second cleanse gets deep into the pores, so methodically massage it around the skin for 1-2 mins. By thoroughly cleansing the skin twice a day, you will kick-start your journey to brighter, softer, and clearer skin! 

Whilst many clients ask for treatments and products that are ‘anti-ageing’, my primary concern has always been for ‘skin health’. Although all skins inevitably age, a healthy skin will be much slower to show the visible signs of ageing, and will therefore naturally appear more youthful. Ageing of the skin is not solely dependent on ‘age’, which is why some people appear to look young for their age. Skin ageing is caused by two factors, those that are determined by our genetics (known as intrinsic ageing), and those that are determined by external factors (known as extrinsic ageing). Intrinsic ageing is inevitable, and is caused by the natural deterioration of skin function, which leads to diminished collagen production, less-springy elastin, decreased oil production, and slower cell turnover. This degenerative process begins in our mid-20’s, which is the ideal time to start on a preventative skincare regime. However, genetics only account for 15% of the way our skin ages. The other 85% of premature skin ageing is caused by lifestyle and environmental factors, e.g. UV exposure, pollution, alcohol, smoking, stress, and diet (especially high sugar diets, which can cause glycation ). These external factors also have the capacity to speed up the rate of intrinsic ageing. Of these external factors, the primary causes of premature ageing are UV and pollution , which cause skin sagging, thinning, fine lines, wrinkles, rough skin, loss of radiance, and skin discolouration. As the largest causes of premature skin ageing are external factors, it means we can (to some extent) slow the rate at which our skin shows signs of ageing. Some simple steps that can help keep the skin healthy, and slow down signs of premature ageing, include: 🔹Using an SPF and avoiding sun exposure where possible. 🔹Cutting back on sugary foods and drinks. 🔹Ensuring the skin is properly cleansed morning and night to remove pollutants (which cause free-radicals that ‘eat away’ at the skin’s collagen and elastin). 🔹Following a skincare regime that is targeted to your unique needs. For more advice, why not book in for a facial at The Rowan Tree (Arundel, Sussex).

The Power of Beech Bud Extract in Skincare One of the principal botanicals found in Sentéales anti-ageing serum and cream is beech-bud extract (fagus sylvatica). This extract is rich in rejuvenating compounds that are beneficial for the skin. Its main active is hydroxyproline, which amino acid is a major component of collagen. This powerful peptide stimulates the skin to build new collagen and elastin, and helps maintains their stability. Beech bud extract is also rich in vitamins and powerful plant growth hormones. These help stimulate cell turnover for a healthier, brighter, and smoother skin. Beech-bud extract also has a large glutathione content, which is one of the most powerful antioxidants, and helps defend against the free-radicals that cause premature ageing. Glutathione is also produced by the body, but its production decreases as we age. In addition to glutathione, beech bud extract also contains antioxidant flavonoids. The many benefits of beech bud extract include: 🌿 Supports collagen and elastin synthesis to firm and tone the skin, resulting in a more youthful complexion. 🌿 Reduces the depth of lines and wrinkles, and helps prevent their formation. 🌿 Restructures and plumps the skin, helping improve its texture. 🌿 Increases cell turnover for increased radiance and a more even skin tone. 🌿 Increased hydration of the skin. 🌿 Fights premature ageing caused by free-radicals. 🌿 Increased oxygenation of the skin. 🌿 Soothes and calms irritated skins. 🌿 Strengthens the skin barrier.

The Black Orchid The black orchid (cycnoches cooper) was first discovered by the English botanist Robert Allen Rolfe in 1913.  This resilient orchid grows in the Peruvian Andes, and can live for over a century. It also has the unusual ability to produce both male and female flowers on the same plant. Black Orchid extract is rich in anthocyanins, a class of flavonoids that have potent anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, helping to defend the skin against premature ageing. Rich in Vitamin C, this extract also has a powerful brightening effect on the skin, working to revive dull and lifeless skins. Black orchid extract helps draw water into the skin, working to plump, firm, and hydrate the complexion.

Top tips to help remedy dark circles and puffy eyes.

Home Skincare Whilst much can be achieved during in-salon treatments, it is equally important to support this with proper home-care. Otherwise, it’s a little like going to the hygienist, but not brushing your teeth in-between! It is important this home-care regimen is optimised for results, and properly chosen and adapted to your individual needs. This is where an in-salon skincare consultation can be extremely useful, as we will be able to examine your skin and determine where your efforts are best directed. A well-designed home-care regimen should help nourish, restore, and rebalance the skin to its natural flora, and ensure the skin is thoroughly hydrated and has a healthy lipid barrier. This not only sets you on the road to healthy and properly-functioning skin, but also gives the skin the resilience it needs for more advanced anti-ageing treatments; compromised skins don’t tolerate intensive treatments very well! A comprehensive home-care regimen also ensures the skin is in the best shape to get maximum and longer-lasting results from your professional in-salon treatments. We recommend consistently following this simple three-step regimen both morning and night, using products suitable for your skin and its needs:  Prepare - Cleanse and tone. Treat/Correct - Using a serum or elixir to address the skin’s unique needs. Protect - Hydrating and nourishing moisturiser (and an SPF by day). Twice a week, a suitable exfoliator may be added in to stimulate cell turnover and promote healthy skin. For more advice on the continued care of your skin, why not book in for a facial at the Rowan Tree!